It was in the period of which we have just spoken
that Smollett wrote of Harrogate as "a wild common, bare and
bleak, without tree or shrub, or the least signs of
cultivation." The latter stage of Harrogate's progress
presents another aspect. Formerly Harrogate was divided in two
distinct portions, separated by wide verdant fields, interlaced
with sandy walks, fairly sheltered by rugged timber, and furnished
with rough yet comfortable benches. This was when the railway
approached no nearer than Starbeck, about midway between Harrogate
and Knaresborough, 'buses plying the journey to and from the
railway station.
One of the earlier movements of Harrogate's later
progress was the transference of the Old Sulphur Well covering or
structure to the Tewit Well, where it now does duty, and the
erection of the present substantial building over the Old Sulphur.
The architect was the late Mr. I. T. Shutt, of the then Swan Hotel
(now the Harrogate Hydropathic), in the hands of whose family the
popular house remained for many years. Mr. Shutt's work was
symmetrical and creditable, especially so long as it was
surmounted by the massive dolphins, which the light replacement in
iron has not improved, though age and uncertainty necessitated the
change. The introduction of a railway station into the centre of
the town, and consequent direct communication with the outer
world, marks the period of Harrogate's progress by leaps and
bounds.
The authors of this scheme were Mr. Richard
Carter, Mr. Richard Ellis, and the late Mr. John Richardson. Mr.
Nicholas Carter, who has been largely associated with Harrogate's
enterprise, had no active part in the venture, as he was from home
most of the time, but he doubtless took some financial interest in
the development of at least a portion of the scheme. The idea of a
railway invading Harrogate was howled down in one of those
old-fashioned town's meetings where noise, bluster, and
irresponsibility made itself known; and received the support of a
few generally intelligent, but timid people. The scheme was
carried through, with the encouragement of the progressive
Harrogate residents, by Messrs. R. Carter and R. Ellis in face of
opposition, though we believe Mr. Richardson withdrew, left the
train which was conveying the above gentlemen to the scene of the
final negotiations, and retired from the syndicate. The railway
company selected the land they needed at their own price from the
vendors, Messrs. Carter and Ellis, the latter of whom retained
much of that extending from the south side of James Street to the
far limits of Victoria Park. The development of this estate
stamped the Harrogate of the future, for Victoria Park, with its
broad imposing avenue, its stately villas, and well-wooded
grounds, its clean, wide roads fringed with verdant sward and
shaded by graceful foliage, has served as a model for the numerous
enterprises which have followed in such rapid profusion. The
acquisition of the railway and the central station has had the
effect of welding together the once detached portions of the town,
and little trace remains of the former distinction.
Another important undertaking, the West End Park
Company's estate, originated in 1867. The area, seventy acres, had
a situation which could hardly fail to recommend it for superior
sites. The handsome villas on Leeds Road, facing Harrogate, with
their expansive Stray view, were soon monopolised, and Harlow
Road, from the Prince of Wales corner, with their picturesque
mansions and grounds raised Harrogate to an important
architectural standard. The Leeds Road villas arrest the eye of
the visitor as the train from the south reaches the open, whilst
from Parliament Street and the vicinity of the Prospect Hotel, the
Harlow Road residences, with their softly wooded surroundings
bathed in the green foreground of the Stray, afford an impressive
glimpse of modern Harrogate. The tapering spire of Trinity Wesley
an Chapel adds a pleasant relief to this picture.
The neighbourhood of West End Park, which includes
the Otley and Leeds Road villas and Royal Crescent, forms one of
the most charming residential parts of Harrogate. From the taste
and enterprise of the late Mr. Joseph Stephenson much of the
architecture in this and other parts of the town derived its
character. Mr. Stephenson built " Dunorlan," one of our
finest mansions ; the Congregational and United Free Methodist
Churches, the Victoria Baths, Westminster Terrace, the buildings
on Westminster Bridge, as well as other important property in
Harrogate.
The late Alderman George Dawson also added
materially to the architecture of the town. He built the Post
Office buildings, known as Prospect Crescent, Cambridge Crescent,
rebuilt the Crown Hotel, the Crown block, and some of the finest
residences.
Whilst this builder was operating in various parts
of the town, the late Messrs. G. and J. Exelby were opening out
the fair district known as Alexandra Park, the beautifully
arranged estate which commands the lower grounds of the Spa. The
late Mr. H. E. Bown, just at this time, had secured the Franklin
estate and erected most of the series of early English villas
which grace one of the most artistic suburbs of the town. Neither
the Victoria, Alexandra, or Franklin properties now afford many
building sites, and steadily the wave of progress is encroaching
upon vacant spaces in all directions. The West End Park has a
splendid future in prospect, and Harrogate looks in this direction
for its early series of speculative surprises. Had the late Mr.
Joseph Stephenson lived we should not have waited even thus long
for a fulfillment that is inevitable and a mere question of time.
Mr. R. Ellis, the Messrs. Carter, Exelby, Bown, Alderman Simpson,
the late Mr. James Simpson (and many others, but in a lesser have
been active builders of Harrogate, and their enterprise has
largely contributed to the dignity and structural substance of the
town as we now see it.
No more charming growth can be found in Harrogate
than the Duchy property, abutting on Queen and Lancaster roads.
Here are villas substantial, quaint, and novel, all stamped with
the impress of architectural taste, accessible by broad, richly
wooded roads, constantly acquiring new charms. This property, we
believe, has been fully appropriated by the builder, and no longer
offers available sites. The Lancaster Park lands, bordering upon
Wetherby and Starbeck roads, have as yet made little progress,
though the prospect is not without hope. Plans, we believe, are in
existence for the development of the Duchy lands extending from
Ripon Road along the north side of the town, due west, taking in
the north side of Cornwall Road as far as the reservoirs. A number
of pleasant semi-detached villas have recently been erected at the
Ripon Road end of the estate, and others are in prospect.
Starbeck, even, is rapidly growing, and where once Harrogate was
recognised as " near Knaresborough," so speedily is the
dividing space becoming eliminated that this order of things bids
fair to be reversed.
In attempting to follow the course of building
enterprise in its consecutive order, we have passed away from the
purely public development of the town, and therefore return to the
erection of the new Victoria Baths by the then Improvement
Commissioners and Local Board of Health, as illustrating another
stage of the town's advancement. The new Victoria Baths stand near
the site of the original baths, a little in the rear of the
Crescent Hotel, and are a prominent feature of the square in which
the Spa Concert Room and the George Hotel are prominent objects.
The new Victoria Baths, were originally built at a cost of about
£30,000, in 1871. The old Victoria Baths were built in 1832, and
though restored somewhat, still may be seen in the lower portion
of the Town Hall gardens, facing Promenade Terrace, Low Harrogate.
In 1835, Mr. Thackwray, of the Crown Hotel, laid out the
Montpellier Gardens, and erected the original baths therein.
Even earlier than this - in 1824 - the old Bath
Hospital was founded for the relief of the afflicted poor from all
parts of the country, whose ailments could be benefited by a
course of waters. The results achieved by this institution bear
eloquent testimony to the efficacy of the Harrogate waters. The
erection of the Public Market in Cambridge Street and nearly
opposite the railway station, in 1874, aroused once more the old
spirit of opposition to improvement. The enterprise, however, has
proved an excellent investment to the public authority of the
town. It was built by the Improvement Commissioners then in power.
Harrogate has been pronounced by the most eminent authorities
to be the "best sewered town in the kingdom." About the
time the market was erected the Improvement Commissioners
purchased the jenny Plain farm from the Duchy of Lancaster, and
constructed a sewage system which is the admiration of all experts
in such matters who visit it, and these are numberless. The land,
310 acres in extent, lies in the outskirts of the town, along
Ripon road on one side and Skipton road on the other. The sewage
of the town and surface water are conveyed in separate sewers to
the farm on Ripon road and to other fields in Wetherby Lane. The
sewage is deodorised by passing over the land, which is rendered
prolific of luxuriant crops. A large and complete scheme of
flagging was carried out some years ago by the Improvement
Commissioners, and asphalting rapidly followed where flagging
became undesirable, with the result that Harrogate is completely
furnished with dry walks.
The acquisition by the town of Harlow Moor, leased by the Earl
of Harewood to our local authority, was welcomed by the residents
and visitors generally. The uncertain walks then existing were
broadened and rendered dry in almost all weathers, seats placed at
convenient intervals, and the passage even of bath chairs rendered
more comfortable. From the moor fine stretches of attractive
landscape and new panoramic views of Harrogate were opened out,
and now the walk through the Bogs Valley Gardens, across the Bogs
fields (where the wealth of Harrogate's mineral waters abounds),
and over Harlow Moor has become one of the most popular promenades
in the district. Next in order of improvements comes the
acquisition of the Bogs Valley, which has been picturesquely laid
out by the town, and presents one of the most charming resorts in
all Harrogate, and being free, is largely frequented by those who
delight to read under the grateful shade of its shrubbery, its
graceful timber, and inhale the sweet perfumes of its wealth of
bloom. Another great public work realized about this time was the
gigantic storage reservoirs in the field beyond the Hydropathic.
In the winter huge quantities of sulphur waters ran to waste, but
the reservoirs, fitted with floating covers, now obviate to some
extent this loss, for they contain the enormous supply of about
365,000 gallons always available at a convenient pressure. The
future demand, however it may increase, can thus be adequately and
liberally met. The crowning achievement of our public authority
has been the purchase, for £29,500, of the Montpellier Gardens,
where new baths are being erected at an additional cost of
something like £60,000. The Sulphur Well and the whole of the
medicinal waters and bathing systems are now in the hands of the
Corporation, by whom an Inspector has been appointed for their
efficient administration. In 1884 the Improvement Commissioners
gave place to a Municipal Corporation, and since that date, the
various public works have been conceived and carried out by that
authority.